Update your maps: Brazil’s capital has changed. It’s almost a tradition in this continent-sized country. After being in Salvador de Bahia from 1546 to 1760, then in Rio de Janeiro from 1763 to 1960, and finally in Brasilia, the current capital, it has just moved its political and administrative center to Belem, the gateway to the Amazon. However, the move is only temporary. It will be in effect for just two weeks during the United Nations Climate Change Conference (COP30), from November 10 to 21.

Overnight, the arrival of 60,000 visitors catapulted the city to the forefront of the world stage. The airport is buzzing with activity, boats crowd into the Guajara Bay. The old docks overflow with lights and festivities. Everywhere, there are debates, conferences and exhibitions. David Fleury, a 36-year-old cultural producer, no longer recognizes his city: “Belem is absolutely buzzing!” This metropolis of 1.6 million residents has undergone a makeover. Its bubblegum-pink, egg-yolk yellow and neon-green façades were freshly repainted. The Ver-o-Peso market, literally meaning “see the weight” market, is the beating heart of Belem. With its iron structure and four turrets, the market underwent a total renovation, including cleaning the aisles and modernizing the lighting and refrigeration. Now, it is hard to detect even a trace of pitiu, the moist, persistent aroma of freshwater fish.

Eager to maintain his image as a climate champion, President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva, also known as Lula, went all in for “his” COP. This official and symbolic transfer of the capital, enacted by a law passed in Congress, came with an enormous deployment of resources. The site for negotiations was built on 500,000 square meters, the airport was modernized and a brand-new port terminal was constructed. Improvements include sanitation upgrades, newly paved roads, dedicated bus lanes and parks. Nearly $1 billion (€866 million) was invested to transform Belem into a vibrant showcase of the Amazon region.

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